One of the things that I have already done is update the steering linkage. It helped a little bit. I am still working to get it driving better. I recently purchased a sway bar for the front end. I hope to have that this month and will install it with some Grade 8 or Grade S bolts. Not sure which at this points but comment if you have any ideas.
Alignment:
I ultimately chose North Georgia Tire and Alignment. These guys are old car junkies and have Model A antique cars so they were recommended locally. Now, I found out that the Scout II is only adjustable at the Toe. I found out that castor must be adjusted with a cut and turn. We got the steering wheel straightened out, and it stays straight on the road. I am still dealing with the car “walking” a little bit.
Below, Levi at Old Iron Offroad has a great video on the process(below). I found a local place that can make the cut. I spoke with Hudlow Axle and plan on going to see them about the adjustment soon.
UPDATE:
I took my Scout to Hudlow Axle to get an opinion about the Cut and Turn. Dallas(super nice guy) took me on a test drive, and he said it was handling pretty well. Upon further inspection, we checked the shims that were installed some months back, and lo and behold. The wedges were put on backward. That means the “thin” part of the shim was facing toward the front of the vehicle! This was causing the pinion angle to go in the wrong direction. I have created a picture below, and you can see it on the left. The angle is not as steep, but you are getting negative caster. On the right, the angle is greater, which could cause wearing or binding. We are going to flip the shims to see if I can get enough caster back to make it more stable.

As you can see above. I should go from -1 degree to +2 degrees, which will give me better drivability and handling. We shall see. The next step would be the cut and turn, which is $1200 bucks, so I am hoping this simple fix will get it done. I am having the shim adjusted today. UPDATE
Another Look:

AnythingScout.com sells some caster correctors, which may be worth a try as well.
Update:
The sway bar came today, so I am going to prime it, sand it, prime it, again, sand it again, and paint it. I bought some grade 8 1/2 inch bolts. washers, nuts to mount the sway bar.






What’s 27 inches long, 3 inches wide, and a 1/4 of an inch thick, and will change your life? That would be a sway bar. Who Knew? Well I can tell you. If your sway bar/stabilizer bar is missing. Do yourself a favor and get one ASAP? I put it on with Grade 8 washers, 1/2 inch bolts, and nuts. GAME CHANGER!



I don’t think I will change the pinion angle at all. I don’t want to spend the money to flip it around, and I don’t think I can do it myself, but I will have it done.
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